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Reporting from: https://exhibits.library.cornell.edu/circus-fashion/feature/labor

Labor

Circus costumes can take years of planning and design, which must be interpreted into patterns and mockup garments for test fittings, developed out of final fabrics and embellished according to the original design. The costumes are worn during extreme physical performances and require constant repair, alteration, or modifications for safety along with daily maintenance and laundering. The Labor vitrine highlights the hands-on work of ideating, creating, and maintaining circus costume.



Labor: Design

The development of circus costume begins with an idea and conversations that turn into a series of sketches. In this display, original costume design sketches by Gail Brassard are paired with costumes from the Ringling Brothers and Barnum & Bailey Circus, including a garment that is paired directly with its illustration: the Herald. Also featured is a photograph of longtime RBBB costume designer Don Foote, pictured at his desk.

Romeo & Juliette Herald "Spec" Costume
Romeo & Juliette Herald "Spec" Costume
Feld Entertainment, Inc.

Romeo & Juliette Herald "Spec" Costume

Title: Romeo & Juliette Herald “Spec” Costume

Year: 1994

Designer: Gail Brassard

Show / Intended Use: 124th Edition of the Ringling Brothers and Barnum & Bailey Circus

Objects & Materials: Color block leggings with stirrup and side embellishments, gold sequin & ostrich feather plumed hat, short jacket with large bell sleeves & inner fitted sleeve with lace cuff, doublet with cape

Loaned by: Feld Entertainment, Inc.

Gold Herald Trumpeteer Sketch
Gold Herald Trumpeteer Sketch
Gail Brassard

Original Sketch - Gold Herald Trumpeteers

Title: Original Sketch – Gold Herald Trumpeteers

Year: 1994

Designer: Gail Brassard

Show / Intended Use: 124th Edition of the Ringling Brothers and Barnum & Bailey Circus, Trumpeteer Sketch

Objects & Materials: Markers, pencil, & gold metallic paint on paper

Loaned by: Gail Brassard

Mihaly "Michu" Meszaros suit
Mihaly "Michu" Meszaros suit
The Milner Library Special Collections at Illinois State University

Mihaly "Michu" Meszaros suit

Title: Mihaly “Michu” Meszaros suit

Year: 1980

Designer: Don Foote

Show / Intended Use: Ringling Brothers and Barnum & Bailey Circus

Objects & Materials: Jacket with peplum, trousers. Sequin detailing.

Loaned by: The Milner Library Special Collections, Illinois State University

Romeo & Juliette Marionette "Spec" Costume
Romeo & Juliette Marionette "Spec" Costume
Loaned by Feld Entertainment, Inc.

Romeo & Juliette Marionette “Spec” Costume

Title: Romeo & Juliette Marionette “Spec” Costume

Year: 1994

Designer: Gail Brassard

Show / Intended Use: Ringling Brothers and Barnum & Bailey Circus 124th Edition

Objects & Materials: Cone headpiece with side curves, harlequin-style dress with neck ruff & tutu, long gloves with cuff embellishment, knee-height embellished accessories, rhinestoned fishnets

Loaned by: Feld Entertainment, Inc.

Production photograph and color copy of Marionette illustration by Gail Brassard.

Inspiration Clown Sketch
Inspiration Clown Sketch
Gail Brassard

Original Sketch - Inspiration Clown

Title: Original Sketch – Inspiration Clown

Year: 1994

Designer: Gail Brassard

Show / Intended Use: 124th Edition of the Ringling Brothers and Barnum & Bailey Circus, Clown “Spec” costume sketches

Objects & Materials: Marker & pencil on paper

Loaned by: Gail Brassard

Original sketch of marker on paper by designer Gail Brassard for the 124th edition of the Ringling Brothers and Barnum & Bailey Circus. Designer Brassard created four "Inspiration" clown sketches that hung on the wall of her studio during the design process of the show, and were used as featured clown looks for the final production.

Clown "Bathing Beauties" Sketch 1 of 2
Clown "Bathing Beauties" Sketch 1 of 2
Gail Brassard
Clown "Bathing Beauties" Sketch 2 of 2
Clown "Bathing Beauties" Sketch 2 of 2
Gail Brassard

Original Sketches: Clowns, Bathing Beauties (Set of 2)

Title: Original Sketch – Clowns, Bathing Beauties (Set of 2)

Year: 1994

Designer: Gail Brassard

Show / Intended Use: 124th Edition of the Ringling Brothers and Barnum & Bailey Circus, Clown “Spec” costume sketches

Objects & Materials: Marker & pencil on paper

Loaned by: Gail Brassard

Installation History Vitrine 2

Backdrop: Vintage Circus Poster Curtain

Installation of the Dressing the Circus exhibition took place over a number of days in February 2022. To partially mask the vitrines, circus costume poster replicas were purchased online in the form of shower curtains. The size and style of these curtains allowed for easy hanging on the interior of the glass doors using suction cups, and served a dual purpose of masking the space during installation, advertising with accompanying signage the impending exhibition, and symbolically providing the experience of being able to "peek behind the curtain" to observe glimpses of the installation to come. This evokes comparison to the history of a circus traveling into different towns and the locals being able to watch the tent rise and the equipment and performers load in.

Install Case Poster Curtains 2
Installation History Vitrine 3
Install Case Poster Curtains

Labor - Costume and Wardrobe Shop

This side of the Labor vitrine is staged as a costume & wardrobe shop. The garments are turned from sketch into reality by talented artisans with years of specialized training and skill sets who ply their trades to bring the ideas to life. From patternmaking to mockups, stitching to craftwork and more, there would be no costumes without the costume shops who build them.

The Wardrobe department of any show is tasked with the maintenance of the costumes, keeping each garment and accessory looking in new condition for as long as possible. The wardrobe attendants, technicians, and wig/makeup personnel keep the show looking its best from alterations to repairs, new builds, laundering, and so much more. The costume & wardrobe shop staging includes props including notions and tools used by these fields and costumes ranging from pristine condition and in active use beyond this exhibition to "dead" costumes that have survived the run of a show and still possess the evidence of wear, tear, and repair.

"Kelp" Unitard

"Kelp" Unitard

Title: Kelp Unitard

Show / Intended Use: Circus Smirkus Big Top Tour

Objects & Materials: Green jumbo spandex base unitard with shoulder closure, hidden pocket, and fins

Loaned by: Circus Smirkus

"Dragons" Ringmaster Illustration
"Dragons" Ringmaster Illustration
Loaned by Feld Entertainment, Inc.

"Dragons" Ringmaster Costume Sketch (facsimile)

Title: Costume Illustration – “Dragons” Ringmaster for Johnathan Lee Iverson

Year: 2012

Designer: Gregory Poplyk

Show / Intended Use: The 142nd Edition of the Ringling Brothers and Barnum & Bailey Circus

Objects & Materials: Color copy of original illustration

Loaned by: Feld Entertainment, Inc.

Gold feathered "Spec" dress
Gold feathered "Spec" dress
The Milner Library Special Collections at Illinois State University

Gold feathered "Spec" dress

Title: Gold feathered “Spec” dress

Year: late 1960s

Designer: Max Weldy

Show / Intended Use: The Ringling Brothers and Barnum & Bailey Circus

Objects & Materials: Gold lamé short dress with cotton lining, sequin & bead embellishments, rows of orange and yellow ostrich feather trim, attached yellow & orange crinoline with ruffle trim, rhinestoned shoulder straps

Loaned by: The Milner Library Special Collections at Illinois State University

Aqua Stars Leotard
Aqua Stars Leotard
Susan Vonderheid

Aqua Leotard with Stars

Title: Aqua leotard with stars

Year: 1999

Designer: Made by Annette Darr, embellished by Susan Vonderheid

Show / Intended Use: Spanish Web act, Kelly Miller Circus.

Objects & Materials: Tank-strap leotard with star embellishments and beading

Loaned by: Susan Vonderheid

Aqua Stars Leotard Back
Aqua Stars Leotard Back
Susan Vonderheid
Aqua Stars Leotard Detail
Aqua Stars Leotard Detail
Susan Vonderheid
Blue and White Leotard
Blue and White Leotard
Susan Vonderheid

Blue & White Leotard

*Costume can be found in vitrine on hanging rack

Title: Blue & white leotard

Year: 2000 - 2002

Designed & Embellished by: Lupe Perez

Show / Intended Use: Culpepper Merriweather Circus

Objects & Materials: Blue synthetic stretch leotard with white stretch appliqués and sequin embellishment

Loaned by: Susan Vonderheid

Neon & beige leotard with embellished fishnets

Neon & Beige Leotard with Fishnets

*Costume can be found in vitrine on hanging rack

Title: Neon & Beige leotard with embellished fishnets

Year: 2020s

Designer: Izzy Patrowicz

Objects & Materials: Spandex leotard & fishnets with appliquéd embellishments

Loaned by: Izzy Patrowicz