Jaipur Ensemble

Orhni worn with Jaipur ensemble, CF+TC #266
Orhni worn with Jaipur ensemble, CF+TC #266
Gift of Beulah Blackmore
Betty Carpenter '41 and Dhimatria Tassi '39 backstage at “Costume of Many Lands” in 1938 and Postcard of Jaipur woman purchased by Blackmore in 1936
Betty Carpenter '41 and Dhimatria Tassi '39 backstage at “Costume of Many Lands” in 1938 and Postcard of Jaipur woman purchased by Blackmore in 1936
Courtesy of Rare and Manuscript Collection, #23-2-749 and #23-19-2807

Jaipur Ensemble

Unknown designer, India

CFTC #261, #263, #266

Gift of Beulah Blackmore

This ensemble was collected by Blackmore in Jaipur, India. Compared to the sari, which is traditionally worn throughout the rest of India, this ensemble consists of three separate pieces: an orhni (shawl), ghaghra (full skirt), and choli (bodice). The orhni is a type of head covering worn by Rashistani women in northern India. The orhni Blackmore collected also illustrates the tie-dye technique known as bandhani. Rashistani women typically pair the orhni with a backless choli tied with a string and full skirt. However, the bodice purchased by Blackmore is neither backless nor fully embroidered. In fact, the blouse appears to be made out of printed cotton. To the left, Dhimitra Tassi ‘39, a junior in the College of Home Economics, is shown wearing the ensemble Blackmore purchased for the 1938 showcase in a similar manner as the Punjab woman depicted in the postcard Blackmore collected in Jaipur.

Additional Media:

Production

The Fabric of India was on display at the Victoria and Albert Museum in London in 2016 and explored the dynamic and multifaceted world of handmade textiles from India in addition to featuring the work of contemporary Indian designers.

Sources:

Crill, R. (2010). The shawl and the head cover. In J. Dhamija (Ed.). Berg Encyclopedia of World Dress and Fashion: South Asia and Southeast Asia (pp. 152–156). Oxford: Bloomsbury Academic.

Dhamija, J. (2010). India. In J. Dhamija (Ed.). Berg Encyclopedia of World Dress and Fashion: South Asia and Southeast Asia (pp. 61–71). Oxford: Bloomsbury Academic.