INSPIRATION: Structural Textile Design

Located in the immediate left of the FSAD Lobby Area.

Structural textile design refers to the coloration and organization of yarns as they come together to make a textile. Textile structures are often categorized in three ways: knits (interlocking loops), wovens (interlaced yarns), and nonwovens (entangled or otherwise bonded fibers). In this vitrine we have included knits and wovens.

Dress, "Talon" peacock jacquard
Dressing gown, brocade wing design
Blouse, ribbon knit with roosters and eggs

The sweater by knitwear designer Mimi Pearce features a rooster on the sleeves with nest and eggs at the center-front of the blouse. The man’s house robe from the 1940s includes a wing motif woven on a powerloom with a jacquard attachment. The jacquard loom transformed the textile industry, simplifying the process of weaving complex pattern designs by using a programmable punched-card system. A digital jacquard loom was used to create a peacock feather pattern in the 2018 Mary Katrantzou dress. The textile was inspired by Baron Rothschild’s extensive nineteenth-century taxidermy collection.

The backdrop, shown in the TEXTILE section at the bottom of the page, features mythical birds in an elaborate coverlet, produced by a weaving guild in Germany. The textile was a gift to Cornell’s College of Home Economics from a group of nine German exchange students who studied at the university in the academic year 1951-1952.