Dyeing - Production

In 1856, the first commercial synthetic dye was discovered by a chemist seeking a cure for malaria. This discovery took place just as the production and advertisement of textiles were rapidly expanding. Synthetic dyes allowed for an array of color options at lower prices. These dyes were ideal for large-scale textile production, which called for a consistent product over thousands of yards or garments. Companies went to great lengths to document the process of creating the colors for their textile design lines so they could be replicated as needed.

While a boon for style and production, dyes were, and still are, derived from toxic components which have been largely dumped into waterways. Natural dye mordents, synthetic dyes, and the bleach used to create the base for more vibrant colors all harm the environment if not reused or disposed of properly.

Like dyes, the range of styles of weaves and designs expanded, at lower costs, as the industry grew. Each season was a chance to demonstrate new color, weave, and fiber options for the consumer. New looms were invented that allowed for even greater design possibilities. Textile companies hired designers, and textile schools taught courses on how to track manufacturing at scale. Weaving drafts, the blueprint for designs, along with dye lots, thread, and weave samples, were all created before the product went into full production.

Before industrialization, clothing was recycled with each season – summer wools made way for winter wools, with the odd cotton or linen if you could afford it. Clothing was expensive and was worn and repaired. With industrialization, mass production and advertising brought lower prices and fundamental changes to style and fashion. Lines were designed for women and others for men, some for children. There were suitings and dress fabrics, each with its own colorway or latest print. Over time, the rate of style changes increased exponentially. Today, some companies launch a thousand styles per week, with over 100 billion items of clothing produced each year. While allowing for ever-increasing choice, overproduction leads to waste. As many as 3 out of 5 fast fashion garments end up in a landfill within a year of purchase.

Stevens Companies. Cloth analysis, 1925.

On loan from the Kheel Center for Labor-Management Documentation & Archives

Collection/Call #: 6896 FS

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Production sample book

Stevens Companies. Production sample book, 1897.

On loan from the Kheel Center for Labor-Management Documentation & Archives

Collection/Call #: 6896

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Stevens Companies. Production drafts book, 1897.

This book contains the drafts for the designs in the production sample book. Weaving drafts are the patterns the looms follow to create the woven designs.

On loan from the Kheel Center for Labor-Management Documentation & Archives

Collection/Call #: 6896

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Unknown author. The Domestic Dyer, 1811.

Book of early dye recipes using only natural ingredients.

Collection/Call #: TP919 .D6 1811

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Ethel M. Mairet. Vegetable Dyes; Being a Book of Recipes and Other Information Useful to the Dyer, 1924.

Even after the discovery of synthetic dyes, many continued to use and promote natural dyes. This tradition continues today.

Collection/Call #: TP919 .M3 1924

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Roake & Varty (Publisher). The Cochineal and Lac Insects, 1850.

On loan from the Kheel Center for Labor-Management Documentation & Archives

Collection/Call #: 6524/004 G

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Kelsell Kemp Ltd. Letter regarding red flannel, November 5, 1937.

In this letter, the company explains that many early dyes, such as cochineal red, were associated with medicinal purposes.

On loan from the Kheel Center for Labor-Management Documentation & Archives

Collection/Call #: 6617

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Anne B. Barrett. Dye recipe for scarlet, ca. 1820-1830.

Collection/Call #: 6515

Stevens Companies. Dye sample book, 1889-1891.

By the end of the 19th century, most textile manufacturers were using synthetic dyes. These dyes were tested to ensure fast, even color tones throughout the process.

On loan from the Kheel Center for Labor-Management Documentation & Archives

Collection/Call #: 6896 FS

Heywood and Company. Dictionary of Coal Tar Colours, 1892.

Entry for the first mass-produced synthetic dye, aniline purple.

Collection/Call #: TP914 .H8 1892

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